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FAQ's

These are the questions I"m presently working on ~~~ Send more if you can think of any that have been asked over and over again. ~~ cdngoose


Table of Contents

  1. Where can I get Avex blind Rivets?
  2. Building order?
  3. Build Time?
  4. Are there other builders near where I live?
  5. I should build or buy?
  6. Is it cheaper to build from scratch than kit?
  7. What should a bench surface be constructed from?
  8. How do I handle a compromised edge distance?
  9. Is it necessary to coat the inside surfaces with a primer?
  10. Can I use another primer other than zinc chromate?
  11. How do I protect my lungs from the primer , can I use a dust mask?
  12. Can I paint the plane with other than epoxy and urethane paints?
  13. Are solid brake lines better than the plastic hose?
  14. How do I reconcile the thin instrument panel to the weight of my instruments.
  15. Is there a need for check valves after the facet pumps?
  16. What kind of filters are "required" in the fuel tank, gascolator and fuel lines?
  17. Can I put a 135 hp Lycoming on my 601?
  18. What kind of drill is best for building the aluminum plane?
  19. What's the best tool/way to fabricate small extruded aluminum parts?
  20. How do I cut a straight line in a sheet of aluminum?
  21. What's the best way to smooth the cut on the edge of a large skin?
  22. Can I use a heavier sheet aluminum thickness on the _____?
  23. Can I use aluminum that is other than 6061-T6 for my aircraft parts?
  24. What kind of battery should I use in my plane?
  25. Where do I go for electrical schematics? 
  26. Are there rules about what fuel line size should be used?
  27. Why doesn't the aircraft fly as fast as advertised?
  28. Can I use hardware from the local store in stead of the pricey aircraft bolts?
  29. What's the best way to store various parts after completion
  30. Where can I get Zinc Chrotmate

 


Where can I get Avex blind Rivets?

 Many builders in Eastern Canada, including myself, buy
Avex rivets from Avdel, Division of Textron Canada, in
Toronto. Address is 87 Disco Road, REXDALE, Ontario
M9W 1M3. 1-800-268-9947.  Price is less than half of
what ZAC charges for them.  They should be able to help you if you ask for the A4
and A5 blind rivet used for Zenith aircraft construction.  Good luck.
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Building Order

The order I built the major components in was: tail, outboard wings, center
wing, rear fuselage, firewall, join rear fuselage/center wing/firewall (then
sit in it and take pictures), instrument panel, canopy, engine/cowl.  I
don't know how much variation there is in these steps from builder to
builder, but that's what worked for me. This is a good order for all Legacy 601 models.

 

The 601XL  should be tail,  wings, center spar, rear fuselage, forward fuselage,  join rear fuselage/forward fuselage (then sit in it and take pictures), instrument panel,  engine/cowl, canopy. This building flow also allows for the maximum amount of room in your shop as well since all prior construction can hang from you walls or ceiling.


OR  Fuselage first if you want the wife to give you more time to work on the plane and get
it the hell out of the garage ( I took this route! With 2 twelve foot tables, a 9' and a 4'table, a Goldwing, Venture Royal -with sidecar, kids bikes and toys,  ALOT of tools and a fuselage in the GARAGE,  the wife has more then once told me to get my butt off the couch and go work on the plane!!!  But seriously If you follow the builders manual from front to rear then you will have a lot less problems interpreting the plans as a lot is spelled out in the front section of the builders manual and as you progress more and more of the processes are omitted due to prior knowledge gained from previous steps.

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Build Time

Time Required: maybe 400 hours the second time with a kit - has taken some folks more than 10 years average seems to be between 4-5 years. The secret is to have a steady pace that allows for sufficient family time.

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Are there other builders near where I live?

Quite possibly "Yes" There are many builders in North America and around the world, getting a chance to talk to someone close can make your project go a lot smoother. One approach to finding builders in your area is to join the Matronics list and introduce yourself to the list along with your location. I add my general location to every post , along with what i'm building and this website. Another spot is to go to check out the builders pages on the Zenith list.? Most builders have signed up with the Zenith list and it can be searched quite easily.

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I should build or buy?

 Depends upon your skill level and personality.  The best question is to ask yourself, am I building this plane just to save money and have a flying machine or do I want to invest a few years in the adventure of building an airplane with my own two hands and then have the chance at another adventure when I'm finished. If you do instant gratification and cannot focus on something for more than a couple of years, you’d be best to buy a plane.

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Is it cheaper to build from scratch than kit? 

 YES. If you adhere strictly to the plans and have tool resources that are already available to you, and you like long projects, it may be cheaper to build from plans than a kit. Or the money saved will pay for most of your avionics. On the plus side you will have a far greater knowledge of every aspect of your plane and if you make a mistake it will be less of a problem to just remake the piece you have ruined then to try and make it work. On the negative side the time and resources it will take to build the plane from plans /making forms /sourcing materials, would make it more efficient to get a part time job at Tim Hortons/Dunkin Donuts and buy the kit from your part time earnings. ( Can you guess who is a plans builder) ( I drank too much coffee at the donut shop!!!!!)

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What should a bench surface be constructed from? 

 One of the best surfaces is a ¾” laminate coated pressed board obtainable from Lowe’s at 4 x 8 feet. Construction methods vary from builder to builder. Remember what you are building your bench for, to assemble a wing or fuselage then you may wish to keep the height to around the knees, to work on skins and manufacturing pieces you may wish to keep it at a height where your not constantly bent over.

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How do I handle a compromised edge distance? 

The rule of thumb is that the distance from the hole to the edge must be not less than 2 hole diameters. If it doesn’t meet this minimum, make another piece. In some cases you can double up on rivets with proper edge distance or install a doubler piece. You're best to contact ZAC for your situation.

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Is it necessary to coat the inside surfaces with a primer?

 No it is not necessary to coat any surfaces as 6061-T6 does have a mild form of corrosion protection built in. Now it is recommended to make it a minimum to try and coat all mating surfaces. Also if you live on or near any coast, or plan on spending any amount of time near salt water then you may wish to seriously consider priming everything.

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Can I use another primer other than zinc chromate? 

 Zinc oxide and lacquer primer are suitable as prime coats, but one must consider the topcoat that will be used over them. As far as preparing the aluminum for primer.  You need to etch it with Alumaprep and then treat it with Alodine.  This removes any corrosion and treats the material surface so no new corrosion won't start any time soon.  You should prime within 24 hours of this process.  This is the mil-spec way of of preparing aluminum. But try not to rule out Zinc Chromate so fast it has been around for a very long time with a proven record.
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How do I protect my lungs from the primer , can I use a dust mask?

The only kind of breathing device for spray primer like zinc chromate is a 3M 6000 series organic filtered respirator. If you buy a cheap respirator make sure it has the canisters installed for fumes and not the white filters for dust.  Dust masks do not work for paint of any kind.  The 3M respirators are not adequate for spraying the urethane aircraft paints either.  One needs a re breathing device or air supplied mask for this. Check out http://www.ch601.org/resources/Quick%20Tools.htm on how to make an air supplied mask as well as a spray booth that removes a lot of primer fumes.

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Can I paint the plane with other than epoxy and urethane paints? 

 Yes, Automotive paints of the past were lacquer and enamels that, with care can be repaired and maintained as easily as the epoxy and urethane paints if applied correctly. I also heard about Sico Acrythane industrial paint.  Then there are the PPG systems and of course, the usual aircraft paint.
The main points to remember when selecting your paint is

. Durability
. Flexibility
. Weight
I have even heard of people using marine paint with a roller. Later in this website a section will be posted on how to paint your plane. ~ cdngoose
 

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Are solid brake lines better than the plastic hose? 

 If the method of using aluminum aircraft tubing conforms to the Standard Aircraft Handbook, they are generally longer lived materials than plastic tube, but they are also more susceptible to vibration damage. Parker Paraflex tubing Matco typically provides has a
greater working pressure of 450 versus the 300 that ZAC supplied. Only issue is that the paraflex tubing is stiffer and may be harder to run.

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How do I reconcile the thin instrument panel to the weight of my instruments? 

 ZAC plans assume by this phase, the builder knows about reinforcing and doubling the strength of panels by using standard angle, but the material is better if it is .040 to .062 for all the trouble one has to go to.

This is my recommendation for your instrument panel. from  Leo J. Corbalis

1. get a shrinker/strecher tool
2. strech an L to go in the back of the curved top side of the panel to form a "U" channel when you cut out the front. Add an L to the bottom edge too. All cleco'ed.
3. Trim and install the tank support brackets. Add an L to the panel side and tie it into the top and bottom L's
4. Mark and cut out all the empty space in the middle and both sides of the panel.
5. Make 3 blank panels from .063 aluminum to cover the holes. Drill screw holes, 8-32,
for 8 screws on the top and bottom of the main panel, 3 for the side panels.
6. Install nutpaltes in the "U" channels for the screws. NOTE all rivets must be set flush.
7. Now install the panel and top skin permenantly.
8. get a pair of nylon fuel line quick disconnects for the fuel sight gage. I've had my panel out many times because it's easy and everything gets fixed right and the disconnects work fine. They are hard to push together, just get it right. ( beats the heck out of dissambling the gage from the panel every time)
9. Now cut out your instrument holes. A fly cutter works if you have good medical coverage and a really slow drillpress. Check the clearances near the corners of the main panel.
10. I wish I had made the side panels removable!!!

Hope this helps someone

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Is there a need for check valves after the facet pumps? 

Most of the Facet pumps have a built in check valve, but they are designed to have a small amount of leakage to allow pressure to bleed off after shut down. These pumps will allow fuel in a higher tank to siphon into a lower tank if the fuel system design allows it. Some of the Facet pumps do not allow any leakage (this is probably what they mean by having an anti-siphon valve in the above link). These will prevent any fuel from draining back through them when they are shut down and will not require any additional check valve. Certain models have adequate check valves built in like the 105.   Others are not so equipped.  Pays to check before selecting.

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What kind of filters are "required" in the fuel tank, gascolator and fuel lines? 

The tank requires a primary finger screen filter, the gascolator needs a fine screen( and th ebowl on the collator CANNOT be made of glass in Canada), but fuel line filters, when used, should have sufficient area to absorb crud but not inhibit the fuel flow and should be replaced annually ( in Canada these filters cannot be made of paper). 

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Can I put a 135 hp Lycoming on my 601? 

 The 601 is a plane that is capable of using everything from 65 hp to 115 hp.  I’d get Nick’s approval on anything larger. The 601XL is capable of more HP and FWF weight and I have seen approval for larger installations. But get Zenith blessing first and check out our engine section http://www.ch601.org/engines.htm

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What kind of drill is best for building the aluminum plane? 

 Pneumatic drills are considered the best due to a faster speed allowing for a lot less de-burring, but the noise of the air drill can become overpowering. A battery powered 14.4 minimum 3/8” electric drill is great, cheaper than the air drill in the long run and quieter. The larger the battery size, the faster the drill will spin and the longer it will last, but you pay for it in weight and size. A corded drill can be used **** sorry I was laughing too hard to finish this line**** ~cdngoose

As for bits and accessories, A 90 degree attachment can come in quite handy but in a pinch a rotary tool with a wand attachment will suffice. Unibits are a must have to reduce some drill problems. Also a drill press is essential, you don't have to spend a fortune here either, a $50 dollar press will work just fine. The Zodiac uses HSS drill bits for all rivet holes 40,30,20's when they get dull throw them away ! It will cost you over a $100.00 for a decent drill bit sharpener and you will not use that much in bit's. Drill bushing's or jig's to drill holes will be necessary on items like the wing splice plates, this is essential.  Not many other places as important.

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What's the best tool/way to fabricate small extruded aluminum parts?

 Your best bet here is a small bandsaw, head down to Harbor Freight or Princess Auto and pick up a cheap bandsaw. It is true you get what you pay for but in this case it is more then sufficient to build your plane. Also you can use a regular chop saw with a carbide bit wood blade to cut your aluminum.

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How do I cut a straight line in a sheet of aluminum?

Option # 1 Looking at the picture of the Olfa knife on Michel's site, it looks very
similar to the "hook blades" widely available for standard (Stanley, Great Neck, etc.)  utility knives.  Most homes have one of these knives in the household tool box. I used these blades for cutting the edge of roofing shingles around vents, chimneys, at the rake board, etc.  At a 45 degree angle, they will slice right through an asphalt shingle.  I haven't thought of using them for the AL, but they may work the same.  For small cutouts like the gear hole in the bottom skin of the center wing section,
drilling a couple holes and expanding them with a hand nibbler works for me. It is slow and tedious but does have the advantage of being very controllable

Option # 2 Mark the sheet with razor point ink marker against a good straight edge or light piece of aluminum extruded angle.  Cut to the outside of the black marker with shears, disk sand the line to reduce it to a minimum and hand block sand or file with a good mill file until the black line is at a hair width and then break the edges.

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What's the best way to smooth the cut on the edge of a large skin?

A few useful tools are a flapper wheel mounted in a drill press or a vixen file cut down and mounted with a wood handle. If you use hand shears to cut the skin I know of no way to get rid of the ripples.

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Can I use a heavier sheet aluminum thickness on the _____? 

 This question is mostly found at wings, and the answer is if you’re coming from .016, then yes, .020 is better and .025 for top surfaces is possible as well to arrive at a better appearing construct surface. Be careful to know how much weight will be added in each case that this is done. 

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Can I use aluminum that is other than 6061-T6 for my aircraft parts? 

 I did call Zenair about that and they told me that we can use either 2024-T3 or 6061-T6.  In
the kit, 6061- T6 is a lot cheaper and has better corrosion resistance.
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What kind of battery should I use in my plane?

 The current best buy is a sealed lead acid battery that can be installed in any attitude in an aircraft. But for the weight conscious a Gell cell may be the best bet

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Where do I go for electrical schematics? 

 ZAC doesn't seem to get into that area.  The Aero Electric Connection is a handbook that can be obtained from a site of the same name for $35.00 and has all one needs to learn to complete the wiring including detailed diagrams and examples of component usage. This is the bible for homebuilders. Some links to schematics will be posted on this site at a later date.

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Are there rules about what fuel line size should be used?  

Aircraft constructs generally use 3/8” aluminum .035 wall for fuel systems to enable flow, include size for filtering and strength of section.  Europe and Canada require the size.  Lines extending into the engine compartment should be sleeved with a stainless braid to preclude damage from the heat of the engine and hold up in the case of a crash landing.

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Why doesn't the aircraft fly as fast as advertised? 

 Few aircraft meet the advertised speeds because the builder doesn’t ask how the plane must be fitted out to reach these speeds.  This includes engine, prop, speed fairings, total weight with or without battery etc.  In the case of the 601, only recently, have the speeds been achieved with any regularity using the 120 hp Jabaru 3300.

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Can I use hardware from the local store in stead of the pricey aircraft bolts? 

 Aircraft bolts are a standard that serves their purpose much better than any other kind of available hardware that can be found in size, length, strength, consistency and reliability.  This would be the least of all kinds of substitution that should be entertained. Your plans have them listed to exact dimensions and properties, the cost saving of store bought nuts and bolts is not worth the hassle

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What's the best way to store various parts after completion?

Pictures will be posted on this site over the next little while on some storage idea's ~ cdngoose

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Where can I get Zinc Chromate

Xylene and Zinc Chromate can be bought direct from a manufacturer.

Korzite Coatings

7134 Wellington RD.124.P.O.Box 1175

Guelph, Ontario

Canada. N1H 6N3

519-821-1250

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I would like to Thank Larry McFarland @ www.macsmachine.com for all his help with this FAQ.
Cdngoose.
Copyright © 2001  [ www.ch601.org ]. All rights reserved.
Revised: 01/26/05.