It has now been over two and a half years since I immersed test coupons in
three different fuels. They were immersed December 25, 1997. To date there is no
sign of disintegration. The three fuels being tested are BP 87 octane, Shell
SU2000 93 octane and 100LL aviation gasoline.
**********
The factory fuel tank for the Horizon 2 holds a little less than 13 gallons
and is constructed of welded aluminum sheet. The cost is $300 plus shipping. In
the spirit of homebuilding I chose to construct my own tank from foam core,
fiberglass and vinyl ester resin. The result is a 19 gallon composite fuel tank
that cost about $150 in materials. While I have previous composite fabrication
experience, this was very much an educational experience. This was the first
time I had worked with vinyl ester resin. All previous work has been in epoxy.
This was the first attempt at moldless construction utilizing flat, foam core
panels. It was also the first time I'd used peel ply, flox, styrene monomer
(thinner for resin) and the very tightly woven #7781 E-glass fabric.
Plastic fuel filler cap features teflon guide tube for float gauge. You can't
really glue teflon so the guide has a little groove cut in it to provide a snap
fit in the hole in the cap. After snapping the guide in place I filled the
recess in the cap around the guide with 5 minute epoxy to help capture it. The
hole in the teflon guide is oversize to double as the tank vent. After this
picture was taken I realized the guide needed to be on the outside of the tank
to provide proper vent function and to prevent fuel siphoning. This also
provides room for the float when the tank is full.
Float. Wire is 1/8" diameter stainless steel embedded in the eurothane foam
core. Six 1/2" thick rectangles of foam were epoxied together then contoured by
hand to create the float shape. One layer of a 4 oz. fiberglass cloth was
applied over the foam followed by a couple applications of microballons in vinyl
ester resin. I finished off with a final coat or two of straight vinyl ester
resin.
This is the bottom of the tank with two layers of the #7781 cloth and vinyl
ester resin applied and cured. Note cardboard form which set the curve in the
panel when I was laying it up and now doubles as a jig to hold the panel while I
assemble the tank.
Here's a shot of the bottom panel now with the end panels in place. Also shown
are the two baffle panels (the ones with the holes in them) and the top of the
tank with aluminum fuel filler neck visible in the right of the picture. The
baffle panels are sitting upside down. Note the notches cut in these panels.
This is to allow fuel to flow to the bottom fitting even when aircraft is
banking or pitching.
Here the baffles are installed. All seams are sealed with two plies of 2" wide
fiberglass tape with flox (ground cotton in resin) used to radius all corners.
Tapes are wetted out and peel plied. I should mention here the importance of
peel ply. It is used on all panel surfaces and tapes to insure the fibers are
properly wetted out and laying flat which prevents fuel from wicking along the
fibers and finding a path out of the tank.
Side panels floxed in place. They still need fiberglass tapes on all seams.
Following that all that remains is to install the top panel. Flox is applied all
along the edge of the panels and the tank top dropped in place. You have to
balance the amount of flox applied to avoid gaps but not so much flox that it
oozes and drops all over the inside of the tank. I used ratchet type straps to
hold the panel in place until cured. With the tank closed up tapes can only be
applied on the exterior of this panel.
This is what all the work was for. Here's a shot of the completed tank from
overhead. The fuel cap and float are at the bottom of the picture. The tank is
sporting about $20 worth of the new water based "Smooth Prime" from PolyFiber. I
bought a quart from Wicks for $25 to try. Smooth Prime is a WATER based primer
designed specifically to help fill pinholes in composite parts. I didn't have to
prime the tank. I only did so because it was a handy composite part to try out
the new product on and therefore did not include this in my table of costs
below.
Fiberglass Tape 2” part#2x50-FGT (used only a portion of $16.88 roll)
Wicks Aircraft Supply
$5.00
4 sheets part #F400-005 Last-A-Foam (used about 3 of the $8.60 sheets)
Wick's Aircraft Supply
$25.80
Fuel filler neck & cap part #FC100-001
Wicks Aircraft Supply
$4.93
Aluminum welding Flange part #AN867-3
Wicks Aircraft Supply
$6.81
System Three 5 minute epoxy part #T-5-PT (used only a faction of the
$12.75 bottle)
Wicks Aircraft Supply
$0.75
1.25 gallons vinyl ester resin part #1110 & MEKP Catalyst
FibreGlast Developments
$62.44
2 feet 1/8” diameter stainless wire for float
local machine shop
free
Teflon guide tube for fuel cap
local machine shop
free
Cyanoacrylate based “Insta-Cure+” by Bob Smith Industries (used 1/2 of
$6.00 2 oz. bottle)
local hobby shop
$3.00
Misc. brushes, squeege, MEK solvent, stirring sticks, barrier creme,
etc.
$10.00
TOTAL COST
$153.96
Sources for materials used in this project include...
The fiberglass Fuel Tank how-to came from
Marty
Hammersmith's Homebuilt Homepage I added it to the
www.ch601.org due to Geosites inability
to maintain a high usage and reliability needed for you the viewer
Personal note: Even though this fuel
tanks is for a Horizon 2, the principles look sound and should not be a problem
to modify for Zodiac use, many people have done this and are quite happy with
the results, I prefer to believe that the aluminum fuel tank is the better way
to go! But I'm here to offer you choices not dictate what you should build. ~
cdngoose