Raw Material 100 mm piece of 4" X 2" 3/16" walled tube

I wanted to make a more robust toe brake pedal with the lever arm in the center as opposed to on the side as per the drawings. This is what I started with.

Cut in Half

Sliced with the band saw to create two larg angle pieces

Back to Back

This forms the rough shape of the pedal. The drawing has the lever arm at 50 mm to the center of the hole. At 100 mm in height this gives mechanical advantage of 2 to 1.

Clamped and drilled

In order to work on the piece I first clamped the parts and drilled the pilot holes. Then I used machine screws with wing nuts to hold the parts together until the rivets are in.

Rivet Holes

Drilled and countersunk for solid rivets. (Same as those used for the aileron bell crank.)

Rough Cut

Part was rough cut to line.

Better View of Rough Cut Part

Testing for Fit

The end of the lever arm is filed off to the line and tested for fit in the attach to the master brake cylinder. With two thicknesses of 3/16" the thickness of the lever arm is 3/8" - a perfect fit into the fitting.

Solid Rivets

The top of the pedal is trimmed and the solid riveting is done.

Getting There

Lightening Holes

Lightening holes are made in the face of the brake pedals.

Another view of Lightening Holes

Still Another View

Stainless Hinges

Stainless Hinges are solid riveted to the pedal.

From the Front

Nearly Done

And There You Have It!

These are a lot more robust and there is an obvious weight gain but this in one area where I felt the extra weight was worthwhile. ~ David